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Thursday, 4 August 2016
Hazelnuts Are Go
Thursday, 19 May 2016
Hazel Leaf Tea
Preparation
Place 2 mashed/shredded or 50g of dried havel leaves in your infusor allow to simmer for about 10 minutes then strain and enjoy.
Hazel Leaf Tea may be used to cure a number of conditions related to the bloodstream, such as phlebitis and varicose veins, also purify your blood and eliminate toxins from your body. In addition, it may also be used for treating a number of heart conditions.
Wednesday, 30 March 2016
How To Make a Tarp Shelter
How To Make a Tarp Shelter – 15 Designs
Having
in your survival bag a versatile item like a tarp will come in handy
during an emergency situation. It will help you gather water,
camouflage your supplies and it will provide a good shelter in case
nothing else is available. Improvising a basic tarp shelter can keep
your head dry, it will help you conserve heat and it provides a sense
of comfort and safety.
A
polyethylene tarp will go a long way and you should definitely get
one for your bug out bag. It is lightweight, durable, draft-proof and
waterproof. They come in a variety of sizes and color, and they won’t
burn a hole in your wallet.
Making
a tarp shelter is easy and there are dozens of different ways and
patterns to construct a suitable shelter with only a single tarp.
Before
you make your tarp shelter you must consider the following:
-
The
location of your shelter is very important and you should stop and
think about it before building your shelter.
-
The
direction from which the wind is blowing should be taken into
account or your shelter will sail away.
-
The
ground should be comfortable enough if you plan to get some sleep.
Pointy rocks will keep you awake.
-
The
ground should slope slightly for the water to runoff.
-
If
there is no slope, you will have to dig some trenches around your
shelter to aid drainage.
-
Take
into account the purpose of the shelter and make it as large as it
needs to be.
-
Consider
the weather and chose a model that is stable and won’t collapse if
rain or snow are expected.
The
location of your shelter is very important and you should stop and
think about it before building your shelter.
The
direction from which the wind is blowing should be taken into
account or your shelter will sail away.
The
ground should be comfortable enough if you plan to get some sleep.
Pointy rocks will keep you awake.
The
ground should slope slightly for the water to runoff.
If
there is no slope, you will have to dig some trenches around your
shelter to aid drainage.
Take
into account the purpose of the shelter and make it as large as it
needs to be.
Consider
the weather and chose a model that is stable and won’t collapse if
rain or snow are expected.
Tarp Shelter Designs:
1. The A-frame tarp shelter
The
A-Frame shelter is probably the most common shelter one can make. It
can be made by stringing the
paracord
between
two trees. Draping over the tarp and staking it down are the final
steps required to make this common shelter. The 30-degree angle of
the tarp’s roof will create a ten foot-long living area. The
shelter will be 8.6 feet wide and 2.5 feet tall. This shelter
provides a good rain and snow runoff and a good wind deflection. The
downside of the A-frame shelter is that there is no floor and if you
haven’t stretchered the paracrod tight enough, there will be
sagging in the middle.
2. The Sunshade tarp shelter
To
create this type of shelter you will need four anchoring points to
which you will tie the paracord. This is a shelter parallel to the
ground and it’s designed to provide 100 square feet of shade
against the sun. some people use this type of shelter during the rain
because the water will pool in the middle and it’s easier to
collect it. To make it sturdier you can add support poles to the
corners. This basic sunshade tarp shelter will provide maximum
protection against the sun, but it’s not suitable for cold weather
and it can’t support rain for long.
3. The Lean-To tarp shelter
This
is another shelter that it’s simple to make and it’s great for
deflecting wind or providing sunshade. To make this shelter you need
to secure the tarp to the ground on the windward side and support it
with the paracord between to anchor points. A 30 degree angle of the
tarp will provide five feet of height and 8 feet of width under the
shelter. This is an “on the go” shelter because it’s easy to
erect and you can quickly take it down. It provides great wind
deflection and it will keep you safe from rain or sun heat. The
downside of this shelter is that there are not sides and no floor to
offer protection against other elements.
4. The tube tent tarp shelter
This
is a sturdy shelter that provides a floor and, if properly secured to
the ground, will prevent rain from seeping in. To make it, you will
need to secure the paracord between to trees and drape over the tarp
with the opposite ends secured together. The sixty degrees walls will
provide 3 feet of width and almost 3 feet of headroom. This should be
enough room for a single adult.
5. The mushroom fly tarp shelter
This
type of shelter is very similar to the basic sunshade shelter but it
adds a central support pole at the tarp’s midpoint. It is designed
for rain or snow runoff and it’s pretty sturdy if you secure the
four corners of the tarp well
enough. You can make it as tall or as short as you need depending on
the length of the pole. This shelter provides a great runoff for rain
or snow, but it doesn’t have any sides to protect you from the wind
or cold.
6. The cornet tarp shelter
This
shelter utilizes the entire length of the paracrod strung from a tree
to the ground. The tarp is draped over the paracord diagonally, while
the leading edges fold under to form the floor. The corner of the
shelter must be faced towards the direction of the wind. You will
also need to tie off some drip lines above the entrance of the
shelter to prevent rain from running down the paracord and into the
shelter. This is a good design for wind deflection and rain/debris
shedding. The downside of this design is that it doesn’t offer too
much head room and if you are a tall person, you might not have
enough room for you and your gear.
7. The dining fly tarp shelter
This
is the favorite design for many camper and it’s a simple open air
cover. It provides a good sunshade and enough headroom without
sacrificing too much space. It keeps away rain but it provides
limited protection against the other elements due to its lack of
sides. When properly tied down and staked, the dining fly becomes a
sturdy shelter and the height of the support pole will dictate the
amount of headroom. This is a good model for desert survival because
it provides good ventilation and adequate coverage.
8. The wind shed tarp shelter
This
type of shelter requires a little practice to get it done the right
way. You will need to fold the tarp into thirds and make sure the
leading edge of the roof hangs over the groundsheet for adequate rain
runoff. The main ridgeline has to be secured with paracords while
stretched between two trees. A length of paracord must be added to
the bottom fold, where the back panel meets the groundsheet. It
provides great wind deflection, but it requires a lot of secure
points. The hanging roofline could also sag under rain loads and
channel the water onto the groundsheet.
9. The Fold-Over Wind Shed tarp shelter
This
design is similar to the traditional wind shed, but it provides more
coverage by sacrificing the groundsheet. The height of the paracord
ridgeline determines the angle of the roof and the footprint of the
shelter. It provides great wind deflection and rain runoff, but it
doesn’t protect completely against the elements due to its lack of
floor, flaps or sides.
10. The diamond fly tarp shelter
This
shelter is suitable for two persons and it’s easy to make. You will
need to secure the paracord to a tree and the ground, and drape over
the tarp at a diagonal. The length of the paracord and the angle with
which it is tied to a tree will determine the overall headroom and
width of the shelter. The steep walls will shed rain and will deflect
wind if they are well staked. This model will require drip lines,
just like the cornet shelter. Depending on the size of the tarp, this
shelter can accommodate more than two persons or more equipment, but
the lack of a floor and flaps won’t keep out the elements. If the
wind changes direction frequently, the shelter can be compromised.
11. The arrowhead shelter
Start
the construction of this shelter by supporting the center of two
perpendicular edges with five foot long poles or by attaching those
edges to trees using a paracord. You will need to stake to the ground
the opposite corner so that it creates a series of four triangles.
This design will provide 35 square feet of living space and five feet
of headroom at the opening. The flap will hand down and make a
partial closure. The poles need to be supported
by paracord tie-downs.
This shelter deflects wind with its low profile and it’s very
roomy.
12. The half box tarp shelter
This
shelter will require some time to be built and you need to use at
least four support poles and as many or more tie downs to hold it all
up. The footprint provided is 25 square feet and it has two sides of
protection from the elements. If not supported in the middle or kept
taut from the sides, it will sag under the weight of water or snow. A
full one quarter of the tarp goes unused and folded up behind the
rear corner. This type of tarp shelter provides good sunshade
throughout the entire day if you position it properly.
13. The barn stall tarp shelter
To
make this shelter you can either use four five foot poles for support
or two poles and a paracrod attached to two anchor points. The front
is supported by poles and the single 90 degree wall provides enough
protection, although strong wind can damage the entire structure.
This shelter produces a 50 square feet living area but it has no
floor. It’s simple to build, but it doesn’t provide adequate
protection from the weather.
14. The Square arch tarp shelter
As
the name implies, this shelter is an arch with a square top. Starting
with two parallel lengths of paracord attached to anchor points
approximately 3 feet apart and 3 feet high, drape the ground cloth
over the two lengths of paracord and secure the long ends of
the tarp with
stakes. This is a good shelter for narrow spaces, but the odds of
finding four anchor points in the needed proximity is quite low. To
allow rain to runoff, make sure you secure one paracord slightly
higher than the other. This shelter is three feet wide, three feet
wide and ten feet long.
15. The shade sail tarp shelter
This
is an easy and quick to build shelter and it requires to diagonally
drape the tarp over a length of paracord attached to two anchor
points. The opposite corners of the tarp are staked to the ground.
This is an open and airy shelter and the lower the angles of the
sides are, the better it will deflect wind and the more shade will
provide. It provides all day shade and it requires minimal stakes and
set up, but it’s not weather resistant and it will not keep you
dry.
What
not to do when building a tarp shelter:
-
Don’t
build your shelter over an ant nest or any type of burrows
-
Don’t
set up your shelter beneath a dead tree or in the vicinity of one
-
Don’t
attach tarp lines to a tree standing alone or to tall trees. Always
go for the short tree in a group of taller trees.
-
Don’t
set up your shelter below the high tide mark of a shoreline
-
Don’t
set up your shelter on top of a hill or ridge.
-
Don’t
set up your shelter on a river bank
Making
a tarp shelter is not rocket science and with a little bit of
practice anyone should be able to make one. Learning these tarp
shelter patterns will come in handy during an emergency preparedness
situation.
[Source
Prepper's
Will by Bob
Rodgers]
Don’t
build your shelter over an ant nest or any type of burrows
Don’t
set up your shelter beneath a dead tree or in the vicinity of one
Don’t
attach tarp lines to a tree standing alone or to tall trees. Always
go for the short tree in a group of taller trees.
Don’t
set up your shelter below the high tide mark of a shoreline
Don’t
set up your shelter on top of a hill or ridge.
Don’t
set up your shelter on a river bank
Sunday, 21 February 2016
Be Prepared to Survive Everyday Emergencies!
Found this book by Mark Puhaly, Joel Stevens a while ago as a free download on a blog.The keys to your everyday survival are: situational awareness, knowledge, and practiced preparedness skills. Sure, it's important to have trustworthy survival gear, but possessing the mindset that you are prepared for anything, and that you will survive no matter what happens, is your secret weapon that will help you to stay alive in an emergency.
"Everyday Survival Kits" contains clearly outlined packing lists for what you need for specific survival situations. A situation will arise when you'll require more than just a bug out bag or a get home bag with the help of this guide you'll be prepared to stay alive.
link to the free book
Tuesday, 2 February 2016
Group Survival
Found this excellent book by Michael Mabee whilst trawling the net "Prepping for a Suburban or Rural Community: Building a Civil Defense Plan for a Long-Term Catastrophe".
links to the free book
Monday, 19 October 2015
Handy Addition To Any Serious Survivalists Collection.
SAS Urban Survival Handbook: How to Protect Yourself Against Terrorism, Natural Disasters, Fires, Home Invasions, and Everyday Health and Safety Hazards
Found an out of print and unavailable edition of this book whilst going through my library and thought i would post it here to help all fellow survivalists out there, especially those who live in the city.
A necessary and effective manual of urban survival techniques—a companion to the SAS Survival Handbook (over a million copies sold). John "Lofty" Wiseman is the author of the bestselling SAS Survival Handbook, the definitive guide to survival in the wild from Britain's Special Air Service. Now he has compiled a complete guide to survival in the urban jungle. Every year in America there are thousands of fatal accidents in the home—more than on the roads, and many more than in the great outdoors. Fire, electricity, water, gas, sharp knives, poisons, chemicals—these valuable tools can quickly become dangerous weapons when not treated with proper respect and understanding. Add to these the risks of travel, terrorism, muggings, rape, tsunamis, and earthquakes. We are constantly reminded that the world is a dangerous place. Wiseman shows readers how to think realistically and practically about these perils in order to avoid them, whether they are at home, on the street, in school, or in transit. From self-defense techniques to home security systems to coping with natural disasters, this book will teach readers to recognize risks, make quick decisions, and live confidently in the modern urban world.
Found an out of print and unavailable edition of this book whilst going through my library and thought i would post it here to help all fellow survivalists out there, especially those who live in the city.
A necessary and effective manual of urban survival techniques—a companion to the SAS Survival Handbook (over a million copies sold). John "Lofty" Wiseman is the author of the bestselling SAS Survival Handbook, the definitive guide to survival in the wild from Britain's Special Air Service. Now he has compiled a complete guide to survival in the urban jungle. Every year in America there are thousands of fatal accidents in the home—more than on the roads, and many more than in the great outdoors. Fire, electricity, water, gas, sharp knives, poisons, chemicals—these valuable tools can quickly become dangerous weapons when not treated with proper respect and understanding. Add to these the risks of travel, terrorism, muggings, rape, tsunamis, and earthquakes. We are constantly reminded that the world is a dangerous place. Wiseman shows readers how to think realistically and practically about these perils in order to avoid them, whether they are at home, on the street, in school, or in transit. From self-defense techniques to home security systems to coping with natural disasters, this book will teach readers to recognize risks, make quick decisions, and live confidently in the modern urban world.
link to the free book
Saturday, 26 September 2015
Water - Why it is Important to store a supply.
Water - Why it is Important to store a supply.1. Water is our most essential nutrient. People can survive days or weeks without food, but only about four days without water. The body uses water for digestion, absorption, circulation, transporting nutrients, building tissue, carrying away waste and maintaining body temperature.
2. Most households have water provided and treated by plants providing clean, non-contaminated drinking water. In the event of a pandemic, essential services such as water treatment may be interrupted for several reasons:
• Absenteeism of plant employees due to illness or fear
• Lack of electricity to run the plants
• Lack of products necessary to treat the water due to ill truck drivers or manufacturing plant workers.
How Much Water Should You Store?
Plan on having at least 1 gallon of water per person PER DAY on hand. Most people need 2 quarts of water per day for drinking. The other 2 quarts in the gallon per day are for cooking, bathing and cleaning. Don’t forget your pets. A small pet can drink one quart of water per day.
A large supply of stored water is bulky and not practical for everyone. One gallon of water weighs about 8 ½ pounds. Many local pandemic flu plans have water system restoration as a top priority, although water may not be purified. If you cannot store three months of drinking water, do these two things:
• Store AT LEAST 2 weeks water. That's the bare minimum and you should do it today! Store at least 4 weeks if you have infants, elderly, or immune compromised household members.
• Get the next best thing – capability. This could mean:
1. Collapsible containers - to be filled after pandemic flu begins, before water service is degraded
2. Water purification filters - to remove microorganisms from potentially contaminated water
Of the two, water purification capability is the most important. Good drinking water will be needed during and between each pandemic wave.
2
Storage
• Start NOW. If you use bottled water, get extra when you shop. Food grade plastic or glass containers are suitable for storing water. Thoroughly rinse and clean your containers and fill them up. Tap water is fine, unless there are restrictions from the health district.
• Cautions:
1. Do not use empty milk jugs. Bacteria in milk can become lodged in the plastic of the jug. Additionally, the plastic is too thin to last more than a few months before leaking or breaking.
2. Do not store your water near gasoline, kerosene, pesticides or similar substances
3. Water is heavy - a 55 gallon barrel weighs about 460 pounds. Store your water where its weight is adequately supported. Basements and garage floors are great.
• Clearly label all drinking water containers “drinking water” with the current date. Store the water in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
• If you have a pool, you have a water source for cleaning and bathing but NOT for drinking. Water in swimming pools is chlorinated, but it also contains chemicals that can make it unsafe to drink. Therefore, the EPA does NOT recommend drinking it.
• Water storage containers come in many shapes and sizes. You can purchase new 5-6 gallon plastic containers designed for water. For small spaces, consider storing foldable or collapsible water tanks which can be filled after a pandemic begins, and before utility services degrade or fail.
• If you have the room, consider purchasing large plastic drums. Make sure they are food grade containers. Collapsible Water Containers Water Barrels/Drums
3
• Also consider the small ‘kiddie’ pools that hold several hundred gallons of water. Keep the pool folded in its original box until it is needed. This water will require treatment.
• NOTE: Properly stored water does NOT go bad. However, it may taste stale. To improve the taste, just pour your water from one container into another one. Do this several times.
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